The Borj Nord is designed after the Portuguese gun forts of the period, and had the dual purpose of defending Fes el-Bali, but also keeping the unruly population of the city under control. One of the most striking defensive features on the Medina’s walls is this 16th-century Saaid dynasty fortress towering over the city from the north and visible for miles. Note the cedar wood doors, which have been smoothed by pilgrims kissing and stroking their surface over the centuries. The shrine, sitting below the tallest minaret in Old Fez, was built between 1717 and 1824, and is mainly for Fez residents, although visiting practising Muslims can also enter the mausoleum.
Experience the peace of a riad courtyard
- Afterwards you’ll see Meknes, founded as an Almoravid military settlement in the 11th century, and feted for its medina and Museum of Moroccan Art.
- Today it is part of the Archdiocese of Rabat, and it was most recently restored in 2005.
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- On the north side, next to the library entrance is Cremerie la Place, for a robust cup of coffee or mint tea.
- In 1915 it was turned into a museum of historical art and artifacts, containing around 6,000 pieces.
- Rather, it’s an intricate maze that seemingly defies logic, until revealing itself layer by layer.
This fortress, which is currently being restored, bears witness to the military architecture of the period and the desire to protect the imperial city. You can follow a signposted tour that reveals the past opulence of this palatial residence and testifies to the influence of the Glaoui family in the history of Maroc. Because of its large size, this palace was built outside the old medina to mark the royal power in the city’s urban planning. You can admire this spectacular façade, which stands opposite the entrance to the Jnan Sbil park.
Fez sits in north-central Morocco, east of Rabat and a good stretch north. Yes—It’ll be a tiring day, but you’ll make it. We spent four days between two riads on the edge of the medina and loved the maze, the food, the tiles, and the moments that tested our patience in the best travel way. Yes—Fez is absolutely worth visiting if you want to experience the raw, historic Morocco with its soul, chaos, and craft all in one place. We got lost in the labyrinth (Google Maps gave up), ate pastilla with locals, and found the Marinid Tombs for the best city view. Smelly leather tanneries, quiet madrasas, and enough alleys to humble any seasoned map reader.
Today it is part of the Archdiocese of Rabat, and it was most recently restored in 2005. The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi, the only Catholic church in Fez, was established in 1919 or 1920, during the French colonial period. Elsewhere, the Jewish quarter (Mellah) is the site of the 17th-century Al-Fassiyin Synagogue and Ibn Danan Synagogue, as well multiple other lesser-known synagogues, though none of them are functioning today. The very oldest mosques of the city, dating back to its first years, were the Mosque of the Sharifs (or Shurafa Mosque) and the Mosque of the Sheikhs (or al-Anouar Mosque); however, they no longer exist in their original form.
The natural music of water
Iraqi-born architect Alaa Said, who studied at the Oslo School of Architecture (AHO), has spent more than two decades restoring Fez’s historic houses. Below, in a centuries-old courtyard, visitors work on small looms under the patient guidance of an artisan. At Riad Laaroussa or Dar Bensouda, hammams fill with orange blossom-scented steam offering a soothing pause after a day in the medina.
- Many old private residences have also survived to this day, in various states of conservation.
- While new colonial policies preserved historic monuments, they stalled urban development in heritage areas.
- It is the site of the famous Qarawiyyin University and the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II, the most important religious and cultural sites, while Fez el-Jdid is the site of the 195 acre Royal Palace, still used by the King of Morocco today.
- Less than an hour’s drive away, this archaeological site impressed us with its perfectly preserved mosaics and vestiges of the Mauritanian Tingitanian period.
- The university was first founded as a mosque by Fatima al-Fihri in 859 which subsequently became one of the leading spiritual and educational centers of the historic Muslim world.
- The shrine, sitting below the tallest minaret in Old Fez, was built between 1717 and 1824, and is mainly for Fez residents, although visiting practising Muslims can also enter the mausoleum.
- Rachid still grills smoky kefta to pack into khobz (bread) fresh from the oven, and on the small square by Mosquée El Qaffazine, locals tuck into some of the city’s best lobia (white beans stewed with turmeric) and addis (lentils stewed with tomatoes, paprika and cumin).
Adjacent to the gardens is the grand mosque Fes el-Jdid, with the most beautifully embellished minaret! Take a glimpse at the dazzling exterior of the royal palace. Sit here at the end of a day of sightseeing and enjoy the sun setting behind this wonderful city. Grab a cheap, fresh juice every morning for the perfect start to a day of exploring. It is one of the most important religious buildings in Fes, and as such, only Muslims are allowed inside.
Traditionally these would contain turmeric (yellow), indigo (blue), mint (green), henna (orange) and crushed poppy (red), although chemical dyes tend to be used today. This is beautiful on its own terms, but also gives you a better view of the mosque’s courtyard and stone minarets. The 9th century mosque went through two expansions in the 12th century and the 18th century and is stunning for its endless arcades, marble fountains, blue and white zellige and delicate stucco work. University of al-Qarawiyyin is still highly regarded in the Muslim world, and while the modern university has been relocated to a newer part of the city, the library and mosque are still couched in the Medina. Fez grew up around the oldest continually operating institution of higher education in the world, founded in 859.
Immerse yourself in the colors of Tanneries Chouara, ancestral know-how
We have seen people also doing Fez in a day, or using it as a base for visiting orls around. Two days in Fez are perfect, did four nights split between two riads within the medina. We tracked every dirham across Morocco; Fez sat in the middle for costs and was great for everyday eats.
Yes, if “good” means local, cheap, and satisfying. As we visited in the summer, the heat was unbearable on some days. Shoulders and knees covered made entering places easier, and interactions with locals more pleasant. Online reviews were somewhat vague, but we found a great, guarded lot near Al Oud café for 40 MAD per 24 hours—slept fine, car parked fine.
Climb to the Merinid tombs for a breathtaking view of Fez
Visit early or late in the day to see this beautiful space at its quietest. It’s also one of the few religious sites in Fes that can be entered by non-Muslim people. Because of its location, it’s easy to visit while wandering through the medina. Continuing the color theme is the adjoining mosque, with its breathtaking green minaret that is visible across the medina. The Bou Inania Madrasa is an iconic religious building in the center of the medina.
Don’t leave without having tasted the city’s gastronomy, reputed to be one of the best in the world. Along the way, he shares stories of the landscape, pausing for views and small touches that make the day memorable, such as tea brewed on the spot and a hammock slung between trees. Famille Berrada and Salah Canteen, in the Achabine Souks, are local lunchtime favorites and still draw the crowds who want to sit down in comfort, but you’ll have the most fun hopping from stall to stall sampling different foods. The Attarine, near the Karaouiyine Mosque, dazzles with intricate zellige, stucco and Kufic calligraphy, while the Cherratine, built later, is austere and contemplative, its narrow cells once housing theology students. Set in a relaxed, authentic atmosphere, it’s an immersion into the flavors and rhythms of Moroccan home cooking.
We were on a grand tour of Morocco and always looked for a secure parking spot. We felt safe walking the spines and main cross-passages by day and early evening. Both give that “Fez is endless” panorama; only one with coffee vans and parking helpers waving vigorously for coins.
Is Fez worth it if you only have one day?
Relax, cool down, and watch the Fes locals enjoying the park too. Because of its historical significance, and cultural importance, it is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. More than half of the complex is taken up by an Andalusian-style garden, still used for cultural and religious events in summer. The work was sponsored by Maryam bint Mohammed bin Abdullah, the sister of Fatima al-Fihri, famed for establishing the University of al-Qarawiyyin – and the two mosques have historically been rivals.
Still, it’s one of the top-rated options, offering private rooms with an en-suite bathroom. The night’s sleep was great, breakfast was included, and it’s suitable for mid-budget travellers. The big lesson—sleep just outside the chaos, park once, and walk around. This is a quick one and two day itinerary in Fez, highlighting the best things to do. Meknes, Ifrane, and Chefchaouen are popular day trips.
Rachid still grills smoky kefta to pack into khobz (bread) fresh from the oven, and on the small square by Mosquée El Qaffazine, locals tuck into some of the city’s best lobia (white beans stewed with turmeric) and addis (lentils stewed with tomatoes, paprika and cumin). The day begins with a market tour in Rcif, sampling local specialties before returning to a tranquil private house to cook. Set in a 19th-century Andalusian-style palace, the Dar Batha Museum has reopened after major renovation, offering a thoughtful journey through Fez’s history from its medieval foundations to modern times. Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah University is a public university founded in 1975 and is the largest in the city by attendance, counting over 86,000 students in 2020.
We enjoyed this season for long strolls through the medina and cultural visits without the heavy summer heat. You can expect rainy fez bet days and lower temperatures between 15°C (59°F) and 18°C (64.4°F). Fès abounds in excellent restaurants, from popular gargotes to gourmet eateries set in historic riads.
Further south is the town of Sefrou, while the city of Meknes, the next largest city in the region, is located to the southwest. The city is divided between its historic medina (the two walled districts of Fes el-Bali and Fes Jdid) and the now much larger Ville Nouvelle (New City) along with several outlying modern neighbourhoods. Austerity measures led to several riots and uprisings across other cities during the 1980s.
Avoid locals trying to direct you to shady parking spots. By midday, tour groups gather near the tanneries and large madrasas; by late afternoon, the souk’s energy swells. This 13th-century city is an imperial city of long-lasting multicultural history, that reserves unexpected surprises for its visitors.